Decoding Thread Count: What It All Means

When shopping around for a suit, you’ll often be faced with words like Super 100’s and 120’s. For the average guy, these words don’t mean much but to someone who is interested in bespoke tailoring and suiting- these words are incredibly important.

Decoding Thread Count: What It All Means
Decoding Thread Count: What It All Means

Wool Worsted’s are the most popular materials when creating bespoke garments, primarily because they are durable and luxurious fabrics that remain soft and silky. Numbers rate this kind of cloth; which is what you’ve been seeing – 120’s, 130’s and so on. The numbers refer to the count of fineness of the yarn being used in the cloth. This count is measured in microns; so the finer the count the more wool is being used per square inch of the cloth. This means that a higher number will give you finer and softer cloth.

At Herringbone & Sui you will find that we offer a range of fabrics where you can choose which measurement of wool you prefer wearing. Each garment has a unique use so it depends mainly on how often you plan to wear the garment. We generally suggest sticking to Super 150’s because these feel the lightest and softest on your skin. Another benefit of finely woven wool is that it is easier to incorporate patterns and prints into this kind of fabric. This means you don’t have to settle for the typical pin stripe or checked design but can opt for something even more flamboyant, if you so desire.

Here we’ve chosen some pieces that are made using different thread counts, for example:

It isn’t rocket science so don’t be put off by numbers and codes. All you have to do is feel the fabric and if it feels right then your intuition is probably spot on the money!

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