One of the reasons that we have been so successful at what we do is that we work on a subtle nuance of men’s garments that actually change the garment completely- fit. The way your clothes fit, no matter how expensive or high-quality they may be, can make or break your look. If you’re wearing a designer suit but your shirt sleeves are too long and shoulders are sagging, you’ve immediately wasted all that money you spent on the suit.
At Herringbone & Sui, we spend a lot of time poring over your measurements in order to give you a garment that fits like it was, literally, made for you and you alone. These custom-made pieces will not only be more comfortable than an off-the-rack piece but will also elevate your look completely, simply because it fits you so well. Now you may be asking how one can determine whether a suit fits well. This can be subjective because everyone has different preferences but here are a few rules we go by.
Suits depend so much on structure and a loose, baggy suit is the worst thing you could do to yourself. This structure begins at the shoulders, a component we spend a lot of time perfecting. Your shoulder should be smooth and drop sharply once it meets the sleeve. The shoulder should hug your body so if this part is too wide, the jacket will collapse and wrinkle up. If this is too narrow, the suit will be tight and pull to the sides. The shoulder should have structure yet fit your body like a glove.
A good collar should sit around your collarbone, not higher or lower. A collar gap which can be caused by narrow shoulders pulling your lapels apart looks very shabby and results in the lapels flaring out and leaving a gap between the shirt collar and lapels. This is the first thing people will notice about your suit so you don’t want to leave it to chance.
We find that people are often most confused about where exactly a sleeve should end. The rule of thumb is that a quarter inch of your shirt cuff should peek through, not more, not less. One of the easiest ways to spot an ill-fitted suit is having the shirt cuff being swallowed up by the suit sleeve. Not cool.
Trouser length is another area where we see lots of differing opinions. Should your ankles be showing? Should the trouser touch your shoes? One of the easiest ways to ruin a perfectly good suit is to get trousers that are too long. If your trousers are bunching up around your ankles, you need to get them shortened. Your trousers should just about skim your shoes while you stand and then display your funky, printed socks when seated.
If you find yourself still confused about how a suit should fit, why not get in touch with one of our expert stylists who can explain everything we’ve spoken about here, and more, in detail? Happy shopping!